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Inspired by Leathercraft

This is a lovely article written for Waxing the Thread Magazine by Gaynor Howell, I thought I would include it here for you to read and maybe as a prompt for you to go and take a look at a very useful and practical magazine.
Here is the article:

While many WTT readers will know of Nigel Armitage’s online leatherwork tutorials, those of us who prefer to learn via print will be delighted to learn that he has recently published his first book; LEATHERWORK Traditional Handcrafted Skills and Projects. The book, includes 12 practical projects which progressively introduce and reinforce the core skills of the craft, ensuring the beginner’s success of each. Aside from the projects themselves, his unique approach to many of the skills presented is of particular value and may even challenge some practiced leather-workers to revisit or question some of their existing leatherwork techniques.

There were a few unexpected surprises when we opened the cover of LEATHERCRAFT so, in order to share with you the reasoning behind those we asked the author to offer some insight into the pages and Projects within.

We found the instructions and explanations throughout, to be very clear and felt well supported when working through a project. Can this be attributed to your personal teaching style?

“Yes. My In-person teaching style takes an analytical – or ABC – approach to learning and is reflected in the book. It offers the beginner a high learning value combined with the fun of making the projects.”

 Your analytical approach is evident particularly in the sections on Measuring, and on Cutting Leather, both of which include some excellent good-habit forming techniques. How does this approach benefit the beginner?

“By focusing on the how and the why. When learning a new skill it is the concentrating not so much on the item, but on the core skills themselves. The book’s focus therefore, is not just on the what we do, but the why we do it. This, I believe, will help the reader grow beyond the book.”

While there is a welcome focus on Pattern Making at the beginning of the book, there are also Projects offering the reader the opportunity to adjust the patterns. Is pattern adjustment something you’ve observed your own course students struggling with?

“Absolutely. Many leather-workers today have approached the craft on an informal basis, or hobby level and while many can follow a pattern, few can accurately make or adjust their own. These are included because the importance of accuracy when pattern making, cannot be overstated.”

How did you reach a decision on which Projects to include?

“I considered a number of projects, finally deciding on those published as I felt it was important that each should have a high learning value as well as a natural flow into the next; each Project builds on the previous one, introducing and reinforcing the core skills, gradually.”

 What would you, the author, say is unique about the book?

“A great many things, but the one that sticks out above the rest is stitching. For this, the book introduces a modern element of this skill which I believe will be of huge benefit to those who are new to leatherwork.”

11 of the 12 Projects are stitched without the need for a harness awl. Why have you adopted this particular stitching technique when teaching beginners and is there an option to stitch the projects in the traditional way?

“This method acknowledges the time it takes to gain proficiency in using the harness awl; it can take countless hours to become adept with an awl if the stitching on the back has to look as good as the stitching on the front. Using a modern tool such as the stitching iron, as an alternative to using a pricking iron and awl helps the beginner achieve a more consistent stitch on the back of an item, with far less practice. All of Projects in the book can be stitched using the traditional ‘pricking iron and harness awl‘ method, if the reader chooses.”

 Note of caution: “While the traditional style of stitching can be employed in all of the projects in the LEATHERCRAFT book, the modern style of stitching cannot, and should not be employed in any form of saddlery, bridle or harness work. Do not confuse the two as they are different; leatherwork is not saddlery.”

 The Project chapters are set out as Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced. Is it essential to work through all in the sequence given? How can the beginner best benefit?

“Taking into account that we all learn at differing speeds and in different ways, I have tried to keep the options open. However, it’s worth bearing in mind that repetition seats new skills and embeds knowledge. Therefore, I would encourage a beginner for example, to take a Project and make it at least five times, using it to gain an understanding of the core skills. This builds familiarity with the design and creates an understanding of the order of process.”

Where does the reader go from here?.

“Keep practicing. Learn a technique then question where else it can be used. The Round Bottom Bag becomes a saddle bag, the Dice Cup becomes a bucket bag. Or focus for example, on the Belt Project and become adept at making them. Make a dog collar, a shoulder strap. Blanket straps, a camera strap or watch strap will all follow close behind. Once you have gained a reasonable skill-set, you are limited only by your imagination.”

Nigel Armitage

Editor’s thoughts:

LEATHERCRAFT deserves considerable credit for its unique teaching style and in-depth attention to the core skills of the craft. The book stands out as a solid grounding in traditional leatherwork while also introducing some modern tools and techniques. Combined, these will undoubtedly benefit complete beginners, as well as more established leather-workers.

LEATHERCRAFT Traditional Handcrafted Leatherwork Skills and Projects by Nigel